#Youtubee hal 9000 replica series#

Start by glueing the two AAA holders together, and soldering one red wire to one black wire. All you need to do for this step is some very basic soldering. To add an extra layer to HAL, you have to make his eye light up. Otherwise, congratulations, you have a 100% screen accurate HAL panel, down to the number of holes in the grill. Don't use more glue than you need to.įinally, print out the label from here, cover the back in double-sided tape, and stick it on.Īnd with that, we're done! If you want to have HAL light up, then continue reading. Make sure there's no dust or anything in the middle before repeating the process with the big lens. The last thing you want is the lenses fogging up after all this work. Glue the smaller one in place in the center of the lens, using a minimal amount of superglue, and wait for half an hour before proceeding. The lens is created by simply cutting two circles out of a transparent Christmas bauble, using the two cutting guides to draw them and scissors to cut them. You may need to trim it down, which is perfectly fine. Finally, add the grill, supergluing it in place. Drill pilot holes, and put the screws in. The aluminium can also be put on, hold it in place and mark out where the holes are. With that done, you can push the 'camera' eye assembly into place., making sure that the black print is nested snugly in the ring. I forgot to do the squeegee-ing, so I have bubbles. Carefully peel the back off the vinyl, and press it against the wood, squeegee-ing it with an old credit card to get the bubbles out. I put the horizontal bar in place for this so I had something to press it against, to make sure it was accurate. First off, cut a length of vinyl to cover the top part of the panel.

This is probably the most complicated bit. We are all, by any practical definition of the words, foolproof and incapable of error. No 9000 computer has ever made a mistake or distorted information.

#Youtubee hal 9000 replica series#

The 9000 series is the most reliable computer ever made. It's easy to remove material but impossible to add it back on.) Use the ring file you printed to test the fit, it should be tight enough that it'll stay in without glue (cut inside the line. Unless you have a mighty big hole saw, you'll need to use the jigsaw for this. The circle should be cut according to the plans, 143mm from the bottom of the grill part, and 95mm in diameter. My blade was a tad thick, so I shaved off some ply to fill the gap. The aim is to have it deep enough that when the 10mm aluminium is nestled in the groove, it's flush with the top of the 20mm bar if you hold it against the side. It should be around 8mm deep, but some experimentation may be needed. Use some scrap to work out what height to set it. The slot for the horizontal aluminium bar is cut according to the plans (thanks again AP,) by locking the mitre saw to a certain height. It doesn't matter how messy it looks (as you can see, mine was far from clean,) as it will be covered by the grill on the final product. Chisel off the top few mm of the wood, until the grill from step two sits flush with the surface of the wood. Once you have it cut, mark off the bottom 70mm. The entire project is built around a piece of 18mm plywood cut to 343mm x 108mm. It's going to go 100% failure in 72 hours. I've just picked up a fault in the AE35 unit.